J Vineyards is a traditional-method sparkling producer, meaning they incorporate many old-world techniques and traditions into their winemaking. Operating six vineyards along the Russian River and Sonoma Coast, they produce many top-quality wines from different varietals and have offerings across a wide range of price-points. We caught up with their award-winning head winemaker Nicole Hitchcock to talk wine, food, and being a woman in a male-dominated business.
Nicole Hitchcock: Yes! I was working in an Italian trattoria and after a busy dinner service the owner opened a bottle of Amarone. I’d never tasted anything so delicious and thought provoking. There were so many nuances and layers to the wine. I looked around the beautiful candlelit patio of this fine Italian restaurant — everybody was enjoying their conversations and one another. I noticed how much the wine really contributed to this festive ambiance and it was just… wow. It really made me want to learn more.
NH: Although there’s never a dull moment, harvest is the most exciting time of year. On a harvest day, the first thing I do when I wake up is check my phone; a lot of activity happens overnight and there are always things I need to address first thing in the morning. Then I visit vineyards while it’s still cool and the fruit is in the right condition for tasting. By mid-morning, I’m in the winery to check in with my team. I spend the majority of the day tasting every tank as it goes through its fermentation process. We set what needs to be done the next day to address the immediate needs of the wine, and then there’s longer term planning over the next few days and months as we’re putting together blends, bottling, etc. Sometimes I get home after a long day and I tell my husband, “I don’t want to make any more decisions tonight, so you decide what’s for dinner!”
NH: Honestly, no. There are certain guidelines that more often than not will result in a better pairing, but I’ll never say “no, we don’t break that rule,” because I know I’ll be proven wrong. Pairing is already intimidating when it should be a joyful invitation for adventure and discovery. The guidelines I can offer would be matching the weight of the food and the wine. For example, pairing a heavy, creamy dish with a wine that’s light, bright, and low alcohol would cause the wine to fade into the background. Aim to either complement your flavors or totally contrast them, which we did at our last Shifting the Lens event. We had a spicy soup that was paired with our demi-sec that had a bit more sweetness with the bright acid of the fruit, and they worked beautifully together.
NH: One of my favorite courses from the last Shifting the Lens menu was caviar with beans paired with our late disgorged sparkling. It was delicious! I’ve never tasted those combinations before. That dish had a lot of the flavor cues that I think of in Mexican and Latin American cooking, which aren’t typically paired with aged sparkling wine, but in this case it worked like magic.
NH: It wasn’t easy for me to navigate a career path with few real role models, so this is one small thing we can do to help level the playing field and promote diversity in the wine and culinary realm. Personally, it’s incredibly gratifying to see the wines I’m producing paired in innovative ways with a variety of delicious cuisines. I’ve had so many “aha” moments. I love being able to bring some of those discoveries to the guests that attend our events, both from the sensory perspective of enjoying the pairings, and also in the conversations that come along with that.
Shifting the Lens promotes inclusivity in the wine world by inviting chefs with diverse backgrounds for a two week residency at the J Bubble Room, showcasing underrepresented cuisines and perspectives.
NH: This is challenging! If there’s somebody at the store who can provide a recommendation, start there. They’ll guide you towards the best options in your price range. When it comes to whites or sparkling wines, check the chilled case; those tend to be better sellers. Choosing from the cold box is less intimidating too, as there are fewer options. If you know the region or varitel that you or those you’re gathering with gravitate towards, go with that.
